By Garnet Hall
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Extra info for Artistic Intarsia Projects
So if you sharpen your edges before they’re destroyed, you’ll have more sharpening sessions, but they’ll be brief. If all this makes your brain hurt, you’re not alone. Sharpening challenges even the best woodworkers. My advice is to sharpen regularly and your tool’s edges will improve over time. I find this true even after 15 years of sharpening. Recently I dug out of my toolbox a 2"-wide slick (a very large chisel) that I use infrequently. When I’d put the tool away a few years ago it was sharp.
Start with the edge of the back (I feel it’s only necessary to flatten the first 5 ⁄ 8" of the blade), rubbing back and forth along the edge of the stone. Keep your left elbow down low, perpendicular to the stone so that the rubbing motion is a smooth backand-forth motion rather than swinging up and down. This keeps a constant, even pressure on the blade. If you’re left handed, feel free to switch hands; it’s an ambidextrous method. This process is repeated through the multiple grits until you’ve achieved a clean, flat and polished surface.
The first thing to understand is the function of the face of the chisel. The face is the flat, unbeveled side of the blade. For a chisel to work correctly, this surface must be flat. If you polish only near the cutting edge (a tempting time-saver) the chisel won’t cut true. When you guide your chisel on one surface to pare a mating surface, the tool will wander up or down, depending on whether the face is convex or concave. When you attempt to clean up a routed corner or remove waste between dovetails, you will have difficulty steering the tool straight for the same reason.