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Extra info for Carpentry - Tables and Chairs
Top to edge make solid-wood lops worth the effort lsee the photo). Though veneered tops T a b l e t o pt h i c k n e s s1, t o 1 %i n . may be stable and show consistent pattern and color, there Bottom of apron is 24Vzto 25 in. are ways of achieving similar from floor. AIIow clearance resultsin solid wood. for knees; shape trestle ol pedestal for leg placement. For stability, I use only wellseasonedst ock. To keep t he seat height is 17%to 18 in. boards flat, I rough-mill in several sessionsover two weeks I eg an d r ai I-Le g- and-r alI tato acclimate the wood to my bles, such as the fourth model shop.
As shown in the bottom photo on the facing page. If you don't have a correct-size bradpoint bit, you could also use a Forstner or spur bit. A fence clamped to the drill-press table helped me align the holes. After boring out as much waste as possible, I squared the mortise walls with a chisel (see the left photo below) Al*iough the side walls can usualiy be pared with hand pressure alone, you malr need a mallet to drive the chisel into the tougher endgrain After the mortises were chopped out, the legs were ready to be turned If you don't have a lathe, you mav prefer to use a squaresectioned tapered leg, a characteristicof Hepplew-hite design.
He plunges and routs d little at a time to saue 1ae6,ron the router's bearings. From the scrap bin, a. ble tenontng jig. It may not look like mucfu but the author's tenoning jig has seen more than afeu projects go out of the shop ouer the years. An accurate 90" back stop is all it takes; careful guicling ofthe utorkpiece does the rest. The Best of Fine Voocltcorking Gary Rogoutsleidesigns and builcls custom furniture and teachesuoodutorking at the C)regonSchool ofArts and Crafts. n. For the mortises on this table, I made a templaterouting fixture for my plunge router.